1. Good videos, but nothing concerning “No Gas” to the unit…I have a Dometic 2300 in a Lance Camper ..86, works good on 110,…….. good gas to the stove,……. but “no gas to the refer.
    What stops the gas to the unit?……no info in my owners manual……and no info on all the videos!
    I can hold the button all day, but “No Gas smell” nothing!

  2. Complements of the folks that make the ARP Control, soon to be on the market. Google “ARPrvSafe” for more info.

    Hi Dennis,

    We own a Lance camper also. We have a different refrigerator, a DM3663 (automatic controller). I will post an answer to our type of refrigerator after I try and help you with your unit which is considered a (manual controller). A safety note first, make sure that there are no ignition sources if you decide to work on your gas line. Always use soap and water to test all LP gas lines for leaks!

    Our Lance, the LP gas bottles and regulators are in their own compartment. Look for a port that you can tap into down stream of the regulators and make sure you have 11 inches of water column pressure (measured with manomer: Gas pressure regulator failure is very common!

    When you push on the button to light you refrigerator, you are just bypassing a safety valve that makes the gas flow full time to the burner. If you do not have gas pressure, I would suspect that the little filter where the gas line goes into the valve may be plugged. Go to Bryant RV and download the manual for your refrigerator. There is a plug you can pull that is a tap for measurement of the gas pressure, I believe it is down stream of the filter. Thus, if you have pressure at the regulators (and the stove) but not at the gas pressure test port, you have either a kink in the line, or the filter is plugged. FYI, propane does not have a strong oder, an odorizer is added, thus if you run your bottles out of propane, and there is ‘old odorizer fluid’ collected in the LP bottle (I have seen it like the consistency of tar), it will get into the filter and plug in.

    Your are on your own, the following is a suggestion only:

    I understand that 97% Isopropyl Alcohol will dissolve the odorizer (I used spray automotive carburetor cleaner). Take off the gas line to the unit, use the test port to put the alcohol into the line, hold the button down that you use to light, and the alcohol should flow back out the gas line you disconnected. You can hook up the gas line, leave the test port open, and use the gas pressure to push the alcohol out of the system when done. Always check all LP lines for leaks when done putting the test plug back in.

    Gas Pressure for Automatic Type Controller:

    Open the refrigerator access door on the side of you camper, sometimes there is an LP gas test port on the solenoid valve (SOV) on the refrigerator. Have someone turn on the power to the refrigerator while in the gas mode, you should hear an audible click come from the SOV. If you can not feel or hear the valve click, open the cover to your refrigerator factory controller for the refrigerator and check the fuses first (always). You can also check voltage and ground at the SOV valve.

    Another way to see if there is gas pressure at the SOV? Turn off your LP gas at the bottles. Mix soap and water, use a brush to put it on the gas pipe fitting at the refrigerator SOV. Use two wrenches to crack open the fitting (create a leak), turn on the LP gas and you should see bubbles. Be carful, you are in charge of safety! Make sure you can always turn off the gas easy by only opening the valve 1/4 turn.

  3. Complements of

    Here are some quick comments as an after thought from my first post:

    It may be best to just find you filter and remove it to clean it if you can get to it. My former discussion was based on an older model refrigerator where the whole unit had to be removed to get to the filter. I do not think this is the case on your model.

    Please click on following link for repair manual and reference to following conversation:

    Page D-7-12, (32): I – believe – that the filter is between part in this figure identified as “connection piece”, and the block in the next figure identified as “combination gas & electric thermostat”.

    Page D-6-12, fig (35): Pressure test port — brass pipe plug.

    Page D-7-12, (37): Pressure test procedure – very hard to see in my figure.

    Page D-7-12, (38): Valve housing described in former post.

    Page D-7-14, (40): “By-pass screw”, very easy to get plugged due to small orifice. Only used when refrigerator is in low flame mode where refrigerator is not cooling.

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